June 8th, 2017
Tempo, by three michelin star chef Martin Berasategui is located in the Paradisus Hotel in the paradise called Cancun. i was able to secure a last minute reservation for a day after my meal at Noma Mexco. I have visited Martin Berasategui in Lasarte last year and it is clear that Tempo recreates the ambiance and food you can find at its original home.
True to its essence
Tampo remains true to Martin Berasategui’s essence. Since the beginning of the meal we find the generous hospitality and familiar items as the fours different butters (cultured, avocado, mustard, mushroom). To go along with the butter service is a different kind of bread per course throughout the meal. We are right back at home, it feels familiar, it feels true. Yes please, I would love some Billecart-Salmon rose to start the evening
Same same but different
The first courses of the tasting menu are dishes I quickly remember from my meal at his eponymous restaurant in Lasarte. The red tuna tartar with kimchi sauce, ponzu, ginger and cherry is refreshing and full of different textures which I find it is one of Chef’s greatest strengths on his menus. The beetroot juice course with sour cream and salmon is as beautiful as I remembered it. While the food brings familiar memories, the wines are rare finds from peculiar regions as the Romanian Maria Pinot Gris and the Italian Nina from the Incrocio Manzone grape.
The meal continues with perfect white glove service. The roasted foie gras with duck sauce poured table side is deliciously surprising. Not sweet but unexpected rich and savory, perfectly paired with a light and Earthy Napa Pinot Noir. The grilled butterfish with soy and spout risotto is perfectly cooked and paired with a rich Chateau Montelna Chardonnay.
The slow cooked beef cheeks is rich and tender at the same time. The arugula chlorophyll sauce and aromatized potatoes, signatures of Martin, maintains the storyline of a Chef that wants to bring his flavors to one of the major international tourist destinations in the world. Two Cabernets harmonized this course, one from Napa, and another from Romania.
The sweets remain strongly delicious as every dish on the menu. Light and refreshing start with melon pearls in caipirinha with a cold yogurt soup poured table side. Chocolate rock with quinoa praline is next, rich and heavier, states that the meal is coming to an end. Sauternes was chosen to go along all the sweets while a golden mirror delivers the last petit-fours of the evening
Cancun’s culinary scene is more exciting than ever! I am already making plans to go back soon!